Doi Angkhang - Northern Thailand’s Hidden Treasure In the mountain range along the Burmese boarder, 1400 meters above sea level, lie a cluster of hilltribe villages, which make up Doi Angkhang. With a population of less than 3,000 people, Angkhang is off the beaten track for most tourists. And yet, this is truly one of Thailand’s best kept secrets and a window into a way of life from a different era.
In the village of Khob Dong, life carries on for the Muser ople much as it has done for centuries. Families live together in single room bamboo houses aised 4 or 5 feet above the ground, with a roof made out of grass. Over the wood fire in the centre of the room, a simple meal of rice and vegetables cooks in a pot.
The fire is not only for cooking; the heat that it gives out is essential in the winter months, when temperatures in the mountains can fall below zero. The smoke from the fire forms a tar like substance on the walls and roof, which further insulate the hut from the harsh climates outside. Woven baskets line the walls of the house filled with rice and, at night, three generations of the family sleep together in between the cooking equipment.
	On special occasions one of the chickens or pigs, which run round under the house, are slaughtered. In addition, vegetables such as corn hang to dry on the warm inside of the hut. Dried buffalo meat is a local delicacy, as are bamboo worms or “rod duan”. The village still has no electricity so villagers rise and sleep with the sun, getting any additional light from kerosene lamps.
Originally believed to be from the highlands of Tibet, the Muser tribe was once nomadic, constantly migrating within the areas of China, Burma, Laos and Thailand, farming opium, rice and corn.
These days the tribe has been encouraged to settle in one place to conserve the forests, which were being destroyed through cultivation by the various ribes as they moved around in the surrounding area. And now, instead of farming opium, the Royal Project Foundation has helped the tribe learn how to grow cash crops such as tea, vegetables and different types of flowers.
	The village has an atmosphere long since lost in western ciety. Children play games with simple homemade toys - parents nowhere to be seen but not oncerned about safety in such a tight knit community. Many of the older generation sit and chew betel nuts, their teeth stained with the strong red juice.
Ever enterprising, the villagers dye grasses different colours and weave it into bracelets to sell to the few tourists who do visit. So adept are the women at platting the grasses, that you see them making bracelets as they walk along the roadside carrying huge baskets of firewood on their backs.
	Children from the local school have been trained to act as “junior guides” showing visitors around their village and taking pride in their heritage. All children, who train as guides, are given an ID badge that they will proudly show you. We felt privileged to be invited into the home of our guide where we sat to warm ourselves by the fire.
At the Nor Lae village, four kilometers away, Palong women sit in the orways of their houses weaving strips of fabric to be used for the traditional skirts or bags.
One of the traditional folk tales helps explain why the women wear a thick silver belt to hold up their skirt. The story goes that originally the Palong were angels who came down to earth, upon seeing a beautiful lake they took off their wings to swim. However, a passing hunter saw the angels and captured them with a lasso, preventing them from returning to heaven - the belt worm symbolises the lasso in the story.
A hilltribe experience in Doi Angkhang is truly unique. The simplicity of a lifestyle unchanged for centuries can only be intriguing for those who live in a world surrounded by modern conveniences. And, this is the perfect time of year to visit this region - the mountain air is cool and fresh and delicious strawberries, grown by the hilltribes, are in season. Fact File Getting there Angkhang is a comfortable three hour drive north of Chiang Mai. The journey itself is extremely scenic with the road winding through some of Thailand’s most beautiful natural scenery. Where to stay Next to the Royal Agricultural Station Project, the 74 room Angkhang Nature Resort, operated by Amari Hotels and Resorts, provides all the modern comforts. For reservations call 0 2255 3960 or visit www.amari.com. The resort can arrange return transportation from Chiang Mai. What to do As well as visiting the hilltribe villages described, there are plenty of other activities that you can enjoy. The adventurous can go trekking, mountain biking or mule riding. Alternatively, a visit to the Royal Angkhang Station Project is a must for plant lovers and the area is famous for bird watching. Day trips can be arranged to the viewing point, which looks over the mountain range dividing Thailand and Myanmar.